editorial@stylekandy.com| Posted On: 29-MARCH-2010 Black! The collection was all dipped in the darkest shade of the colour palette. The show started a good one hour thirty minutes late. But once everyone was inside, one did understand that the wait was worth it.
VARUN SARDANA WIFW A/W'10- Day 5
Perhaps the first show in India that made the crowd to sit on the floor, apart from the front row sitters who were made to sit right at the back with two rows specially made of conventional seating.
Ritu Kumar, Sanchita Ajjampur were seen occupying the top most row…Gaurav Gupta, Anand Bhushan, Amit Aggarwal were seen sitting on the floor at the nearest row from the ramp. While Manish Arora was also seen sitting comfortably in the crowd. Varun Behl, Rahul Mishra and James Ferreirawere seen standing at the aisle.
Smoke effects started the show creating a cloudy ambience. And finally a model appeared, sporting a big headgear and loud make up which resembled the one done in Kathakali dance form.
No wonder, the makeup, the hairdo and headgears consumed so time to start the show. Every model was seen displaying a different make up…which was interesting to watch.
The music was in sync with the Kathakali theme…but the show did witnessed some loss of sound in between, but the crowd and spectators were quite supportive to offer a good loud round of encouraging applause to heighten the motivational lee of the models.
Colourful feathered boots created an impression of a bird’s claws. Model Sapna Kumar ended the show in a ruffled black gown. Last but not the least…Asha and Vidhyun’s choreography rocked.
The Review:
Ritu Kumar, designer: Very different and enthralling.
Tina Tahiliani, owner, Ensembles: Brilliant! A very well thought show
Samant Chauhan, designer: All masala was there…whether it is origami, texturing, ruffles, so lovely.
Sanchita, designer: Very unusual from his previous collection. He is known for his colourful sense of design and doing a line up in all black…very commendable. This collection will be well accepted in the European market.
Divyam Mehta, upcoming designer: Nice and very dramatic.
Anand Bhushan, designer: Loved his collection. This was one of the best collections of this season. I think the biggies need to gear up. Varun’s collection always comes with some surprise package.Varun Sardana
Rustic charm
Varun Sardana’s WIFW A/W 2010 collection called ‘Untitled Collection’ was very unusual in terms of ambience. All the chairs were removed and the seated arrangement was done on the floor. The ramp was made up with a wooden floor to give a raw and rustic ambience.
The show started with a black ensemble with very dramatic makeup inspired by the traditional dance form of Kathakali, with an exaggerated hair do. In his collection, Sardana explored different forms of fabric treatment and texturization. He played with different fabrics to create interesting combinations like felt with georgette and wool pin tuck and felt treatment to create textures on garments. His silhouettes and detailing were classic yet innovative, giving a new meaning of silhouette to the body form. The collection comprised jackets, pants, dresses, skirts and capes. The entire collection was in black, accessorized with dramatic head gear and feather boots.
The collection was contemporary, innovative and very avante garde but at the same time wearable too, with quality craftsmanship, detailing, texture and impeccable finishing.
Images
I did not quite understand why a talented young designer Varun Sardana chose to delay his designs by more than 90 minutes by removing several rows of seats and made guests sit on the floor and watch his show. What I saw at the show, mostly in black, did impress me from the distance, but at the show I realized that the seating arrangements were really a farce. It made no difference to his clothes as models walked just the way they did for other shows. Such gimmicks weren’t really needed and FDCI may want to rethink permitting such unwarranted delays by designers.
Hindustan Times
Varun Sardana ensured his collection will be talked about. For starters, he removed all the chairs in the initial few rows and made everyone sit on the floor. His ramp too was wide. His collection was totally black – Varun never strayed from the tonal purity of the theme. Kathakali make-up on the faces of the models was his only concession towards colours. His neat, structured outfits, which were very wearable, were such that they could be worn as separates, or as ensembles.
Times of India
The final designer, Varun Sardana, was by far and away the best. Here was a troop of terra cotta soldiers with a hint of Mordor sprung to life. Layers of shredded black fabric on top of contrasting textures, leathers, braided and sculpted ferocious hair. Sardana's avant garde all-black vision is in the tenor of folks such as Yamamoto (astute attention to creating intricacy with tone on tone and texture on texture) and Chalayan (giant black unicorn horn strapped to a model's head) and he is already stocked in over 30 stores internationally. Assaulted with awards, this young talent will be showcasing his collections through the MC2 Diffusion Showroom in Paris during the next Paris Fashion Week. Gotta make sure I get me a ticket!
The final look, a hooded hand shredded organza ball gown with scoop back, was ready for red carpet, channeling even, in the precision of its execution, the mastery of its tailoring yet the innovation at the level of detail, Alexander McQueen himself.
This one will go far.
The Clothes Whisperer
Designer Varun Sardana stripped the runway bare and removed the seats from the show area on Day 4. For once, the high heel set plonked themselves on the aisles, with designer Manish Arora, Amit Aggarwal of Morphe and Catherine Gouin from Paris-based boutique MC2 cheering for the Delhi-based Sardana. The models marched out in Kathakali face masks, gilded helmets, and elephant masks to the sound of beating drums. The super chic 20 minute presentation saw sensible trousers, lots of belts and mannish shoes in faux fur.
You could walk barefoot and call that a statement. Or not. The romance between shoes and fashion runs deep. So deep, that it led to the overthrow of a queen, Marie Antoinette. Seen this week at newbie Varun Sardana’s show, at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week 2010 in New Delhi were, shoe-stoppers. This is a spin on the bog-standard clunky clog as it teams up unexpectedly with feathers: what you see is texture and layers. Very unusual but reminiscent of the Australian Mukluk style. “Everything is not meant to make a statement or has a meaning. This collection was asking you to figure out what was beautiful,” says Sardana.
Indian Express
"This can't be happening!" shrieked a mini-clad, well-heeled fashion magazine editor, in reaction to the new seating arrangement at designer Varun Sardana's show, pushing front row guests to the last row, and bringing back-benchers to prime slot.Great make-up and hair, Varun the clothes? Uhh, we didn't see them
By: Shweta Shiware
That's a price you paid to rest your designer tush on benches while the rest of the invitees sat on elevated seats - close and comfortable.
Heads masked in elaborate ethnic accessories, make-up celebrating the vibrancy of colours and feet draped in feathered boots - the modern tribal folk took to the stage on Mandallam beats synonymous with a Kathakali dance routine.
The theme of the show, ladies and gentlemen, was the graceful but power packed dance from the Land of Gods.
Splendid, as one would imagine, and that's our dependable sense talking since we were flung too far from the runway to even bother to train our eyes.
The path-breaking idea was to create an opera-like experience.
But it didn't quite work for a designer whose clothes have grabbed attention from the media because he's a master cutter with sound knowledge of surface ornamentation. The least he could have done is provide the media with binoculars.
PS: we appreciate the work that went into the headgears and make-up that took six hours to do.
Autumn/Winter Show Reviews
Drama-wise, Varun Sardana scored. After a 90-minute wait, the audience walked into the show area for Sardana's show to find the chairs missing. Kathakali makeup and feather shoes lent the only dash of colour to a predominantly black show. On the case of the missing chairs, he explained, “I've always wanted to do a show without a front row. It doesn't matter where you sit.
Hindu
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